Perhaps the most extreme and unique era of jewellery design, the Brutalist era encompased a celebration of raw and natural forms. One of the most celebrated and recognized designers of the era was Andrew Grima, often referred to as the father of modern jewellery.
The Italian born jeweler lived and worked in London for the majority of his career. He was one of the pioneers of this new brutalist movement, where jewellery crossed over from it's classical designs to architectural art for the body. His designs are highly coveted and in collections such as Jacquie Onassis, Queen Elizabeth II, Princess Margaret, Miuccia Prada, Marc Jacobs & Taylor swift to name a few!
Hallmarked for Grima and made c1976, this simple yet striking band of staggered bars in 18ct gold it so tactile. Each textured bar has been placed along two rings of yellow gold allowing the outside of the ring to have such an organic, continuous and textured look.
This era of design is perhaps one of my favourites called 'Sticks and Stones'. Whereas rock revival was about chunks of naturally form rocks and crystal this collection was to be more elegant and linear. The 'sticks' were a combination of crystal and gold: long slender rods of pink and green tourmaline and the gold was in the form of matchstick like twigs (shown in this ring). This was the penultimate of Andrew Grima's nature collections as his use of raw materials was so compelling. He was at the height of his fame and the pieces showed this relaxed approach and lightness of touch from someone who had nothing more to prove If you would like to read more about Andrew Grima please see my blog I posted recently on the website
Size J
Weight 5.73g
Shank Measurements 7.10mm widest x 0.711.82mm
Staggered & Pierced
Hallmarks "GRIMA"
"UK. Gold Duty Mark" London 750 1976
Test 750/18ct
Valued $9550